Paris travel & market guide

Lexi and I on a shopping trip in le Marais

I have always loved Paris. I hate to be a cliché, but there we are! The food, the architecture, the antique treasures, and, of course, the delicious sweet treats (my Achilles' heel wherever I am in the world) - it's just so good!


There are so many round-ups on where to go in this city, but if you like my kind of travel (authentic flea markets, shopping, French fries, and fizz), this one's for you. I'd also love to hear any of your recommendations, so please drop them in a comment (at the bottom of the page) or ask me a question if you'd like more details on anything!

Heather hunting for antiques at Foire de Chatou flea market
Foraging at Foire de Chatou 

Where to stay 

 

Le Marais has always been my go-to neighborhood. I've stayed elsewhere in Saint-Germain and Montmartre a few times, but always find my way back to the 3rd arrondissement.


Annoyingly, finding a good airbnb has got trickier here since the French government reduced how often a home can be rented out. Last time we stayed in this place and it was great! Surrounded by cute cafés and shops, but set back from the street so it was quiet too. Here are a few others I've had my eye on:

Quintessential Parisian

Converted loft by the Seine

Exposed stone goodness

Spacious & bright


As for hotels, I would suggest:

Hôtel Providence

Maison Saintonge

Hôtel le Grand Mazarin

Lexi and I in the sun!
rue de Archives on a cloudy morning
coffee and cakes on display at Grave café
morning coffee pilgrimage to Grave
in my element at Parcelles
in my element at Parcelles

Where to eat


Cafés/cakes


Grave - delicious coffee with a side of soft serve if you so fancy. They have a different flavor basque cheesecake every day!


Partisan - full of trendy locals, in a good way. The coffee and cookies are so tasty!


French Bastards - the best pastries!!


Du Pain et des Idées - for the pistachio pastry.


Popelini - I love these. Get a box with a good mix of flavors.


PS, can you tell I’m more into a frosting pastry than lamination?



Restaurants


Septime - still trying to get in, but I try EVERY time. Let me know if you think it's worth it!


Parcelles - easily one of my favorite restaurants of all time, not just in Paris. A 10/10 for atmosphere, food, wine, and service.

Early June - a wine bar that hosts traveling chefs, so it's a new cuisine every few weeks. The food is always incredible and the atmosphere is great (if not a little on the loud side). You can't book for 2, so turn up early and leave your number.


Pluto - we haven't actually made it here yet as the fashion week crowds made it too hard to get a booking (top tip - avoid fashion week at all costs), but I've heard great things and will definitely be going next time.

Da Melo - If you're after a hearty hole in the wall, this tiny Italian is for you. It was 2 minutes from our airbnb and so delicious. Get the ragu!


Le Bon Georges - It's definitely on the more touristy side but for good reason. The French fries were out of this world.


Chez Janou - We were in two minds about whether to include this because it's gotten quite touristy and the service can be subpar. But the chocolate mousse is still the best I've ever had.

a table at Parcelles restaurant in the le Marais
Parcelles
a feast of french fries and steak at le bon Georges
Le bon Georges
A clam shell on a bed of rice
Septime
tables set beside shelves of wine at Early June
Early June

Where to drink


Aux deux amis - One of the most fun wine bars I've ever been to. Not the least bit pretentious and with 


Folderol - wine and ice cream. What more could you want?


Chambre noire - delicious small plates and an amazing selection of well-priced wine. 


Poney club - up in Montmartre, it's the perfect place to swing by after a trip to Objet qui Parle. They also do wine tastings which I'd love to try!


Le café noir - cheap and cheerful with a real neighborhood spirit. It's also one of the best people-watching spots ever!


Terra bar à vins - we happened upon this place because it was directly below another airbnb we've stayed in. The food here is exceptional!

a table of partially-drunk drinks at Aux des Amis
Aux deux amis
Terra wine bar from the street
Terra bar à vins

Where to shop


Merci - this place has become insanely popular but I go back every time because it's so well-curated. Some of the best bags and bits I've bought over the years are from here!


Galerie Paradis - If you like vintage furniture and decor, it’s not flea market prices, but it is sooo well curated.


AXS design - an interiors store with a really great selection.


Antoinette Poisson - incredible wallpaper, fabrics and scents inspired by 18th-century designs.


Nose - I’m always scouting for new perfumes and this place has a great selection. It's just round the corner from le café noir (one of our favorite bars) and a whole street of great shops.


Loulou studio - it's on the pricier side but I absolutely love everything I've bought here. My latest purchase was a thick cotton trench with the best boxy but not too oversized silhouette. It's perfect for Spring.


Thanx God I'm a VIP - I could antique for hours but find vintage clothes shopping weirdly overwhelming. This place is color coordinated which feels so much easier, and there's loads of great stuff!


Closet 2 Closet - vintage and pre-loved luxury. You'll need to pre-book as it's private, but worth it!


La Grande Epicerie - because a bougie grocery store is one of my top (admittedly bizarre) favorite ways to pass an hour.


Maybe we got lucky cause it was fashion week, but the pop-ups were in a league of their own when we were there last. Keep an eye out for some really amazing, unique pieces.

the Loulou studio shopfront in le Marais
Loulou studio
a shelf of treasures in Merci
Merci

Where to antique


Objet qui Parle - this little store always has the best antiques at such reasonable prices, especially considering it's in Montmartre. Some of our favorite ever finds are from here!


Quincaillerie Leclercq - antique hardware haven! A must-visit if you're renovating.


Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen - it's popular for good reason. There are high-end sections and more affordable flea-market areas so you can find something for every budget.


Portes de Vanves - my personal favorite. It happens every weekend out in the 14th arrondissement and has a real neighborhood feel to it. Sometimes you'll find true gems, other times it's mostly tat, but that's all part of the fun!


Rue de Bretagne - Paris' biggest brocante which takes place twice yearly in the Marais. You can expect everything from Regency antiques to midcentury furniture and vintage Levi's.


Foire de Chatou - on the outskirts of Paris, this one is definitely on the pricier side but you can still find some good treasure if you search hand enough! Take cash and be prepared to haggle.

objet qui parle antique store
Objet qui parle
a table of antique treasures at port de vanves market
Port de Vanves 

SHOP ANTIQUES


Our latest art collection comprises antique paintings and frames picked up from these very places. Some of our favorites are still up for grabs...

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